Photos: https://photos.app.goo.gl/J4ptMy2cd58Aga5GA
I left the Italian Alps and rode into Austria and then thru Slovenia on my way to Croatia. I briefly rode thru Italy again passing thru Trieste, which is a historically important port city and also one of the windiest places I’ve ever been. The frequent gusts are due to a weather pattern called the Bora. My warm showers host took me out for some wine with his friends, who were amused at how frequently I got startled when I’d hear a loud noise caused by the wind knocking over signs, blowing wine glasses off tables, or slamming window shutters back and forth. The locals I was with were not at all alarmed by these frequent disturbances.
In Croatia I spent a few days on the Istrian peninsula and on an Island called Cres, which was very pleasant. The Adriatic Sea in that area is spectacular. The water is crystal clear and there aren’t really any waves. The beaches are mostly large rocks, so even if there’s lots of people you can usually find a semi-private nook to relax in. The combination of the quietness due to the lack of waves, the privacy afforded by the rocky beaches, and being able to relax on a pool floatie in the ocean makes for a very enjoyable beach experience.
I encountered a new challenge to traveling by bicycle once I left the touristy coastal part of Croatia, which is being chased by dogs. The first time this happened I was speeding down a hill rounding a corner when an ~80lb dog ran towards me barking. I screeched to a halt and stood there with my bicycle between me and barking dog and I held out my hand to try to befriend it. I was quite scared and I’m sure the dog could sense my fear. After a minute or so I felt confident that the dog would not bite me as long as I didn’t go any further down the street. I yelled for help because I wanted to continue my ride and soon the owner came out and put the dog on a leash. He spoke no English but invited me in for coffee, perhaps because he felt bad about how scared I looked. As soon as I left his place I found a stick that I now keep easily accessible to defend against these off-leash guard dogs. Sometimes before entering a rural village I preemptively grab the stick and ride thru the town holding it with the handlebar, probably looking like I’m preparing for a jousting match. I also started carrying a piece of salami that I can quickly grab and bite off a chunk to offer to a barking dog in order to try to win its friendship. So far these tactics have kept me safe. I was comforted to read that the last known case of rabies in a human in Croatia was in the 60s…
